Its been a very long time.

"This is television...we call it televiision...like TV."

It has been a long week the culminated to by far the most incredible experience I've had in Jordan. From the World Cup to having the best sandwich in the world to spending the night in Jeresh, my experience here will leave me craving more.

Ok, so best sandwich in the world. I've mentioned before about my language partner, early this week we meet up and went to a truly beautiful area of Amman where she insisted on buying me a Lebanese sandwich. What people say about Arab hospitality is entirely true, when I've gone out with Jordanians I've never had to pay. When I pull out my wallet, I'm shot a look that I cannot argue against. Put-your-wallet-back-in-your-bag-your-my-guest-get-use-to-it.

The sandwich shop was very discreet, I would have never noticed it if I were to walk by alone or drive by in a taxi. It seemed no different than the other numerous sandwich shops, coffee shops, or grocery stores that litter the streets of Amman. I walk in and it instantly reminded me of the numerous pizza shops that litter the streets of New York. Counter space, drink fridges to the side, and behind the counter the kitchen including an impressive brick oven. The sandwich was similar to a calzone but by far more tasty. The bread was sweet but paired with a salty and slightly bitter cheese and then matched the tartness of olives and the crunch of fresh vegetables...I'm drooling at the thought.

We talked and just walked around this beautiful area of the city. We ended up at a tiny park in the middle of the city. I discovered that my partner is of Palestinian descent from Neblus. Somehow Palestine always comes up.

The park was stunning and was nestled in a little corner of the city that I would have never discovered had it not been for my language partner. We walked around rubbing our hands on the rosemary bushes as I revealed to her my favorite activity of people watching. We eventually found a shaded nook off the main square of park to chat and people-watch. For then on we were silent and admired the beautiful world immediately around us.

After, we walked by a small bakery that had the best apple pie in Amman. A little taste of America in Amman?

In my travels in Amman, I've had the pleasure of meeting many people. Whether with Amideast or friends of friends of friends, I've had the pleasure of meeting some truly wonderful people. But by the far the most incredible and awe-inspiring experience I've had in Jordan was my decision to spend a the night with a rural family in Jeresh.

A friend introduced me to a Ekram, a woman who works in an NGO in Amman promoting environmental awareness, human rights, and youth involvement. I met with her wanting to know more about her organization and the type of work that she does. Our conversation led to a friendship and an opportunity that I will never forget. By the end of our meeting she invited me to her family's home in Jeresh for the weekend. I explained that I would only be able to stay for one evening but that I would be happy to visit.

By far, the best decision I have ever made. My word of advice to future travelers to Jordan when a family invites you to their home, go. I love Amman but it's a very Western city. If you wait a genuine taste of Arab culture, go to the countryside.

I met Ekram after class on Thursday to travel with her to Jeresh. We communicated in mostly Arabic and my confidence in this new little adventure grew. She told me that her family was waiting for me to come in order to take lunch. Meal 1 of the 7 meals that would have that day.

We hop off the bus down the street from her house and as the arid heat suctioned my body, I gleamed over the hill and witnessed a swaying valley surrounded by gentle mountains with Amman, Salt, and Jeresh visible through the haze.


This image were merely the beckon for what was to come next.

Her family was waiting for me as I entered. Ekram has five brothers, two of which are married, and two sisters, both younger. A family of 8 children that have either all graduated from university, are currently going to university, or are studying for their exams to enter university. Its quite a feat. Her parents and younger brothers and sisters were sitting comfortably in their living room; a large rectangular room in traditional design. Cushions, intended for sitting, laying, and eating; surrounding the half the room with a TV and desk adjacent. 3 rooms filed off from the main room: the parent's bedroom, the girl's bedroom, and a welcoming room designed with elaborate carpet and lounge chairs. Their house lay in the middle of a small farm; a few olive, berry, and plum trees and a chicken coup. Down the hill from their house were the farms of their grandparents and uncles, easily a acres of land for fruit and olive trees.

Word of Arab hospitality is completely true. Without hesitation, Ekram's family exclaimed that I was their daughter and sister insisted that I sit and began to teach me the words of everything in the room. Including the TV. The two or three people who spoke decent English insisted on explaining everything to me in English, even things that I could easily understand. I was offered coffee, tea, juice, water, and fresh fruit form their garden. Within an half hour we had our first meal: a dark green vegetable stew atop rice and of course pita bread. The first meal I could taste the freshness of the earth in the meal and immediately knew that most of their food would be picked straight from their garden.

It was also at this meal that I explained that I'm a vegetarian.

"No meat?"

"Yes."

"No chicken??"

"Yes, no chicken."

"Fish?"

"No, no fish."

The father's face cringed away and it was obvious that this was a tab bit strange. One of Ekram's married brothers interjected soon after, "Well..thats economical!"

At every meal I was given a towel to lay over my lap that no one else took. Something I'm not quite to sure why.

Ekram's father was a loud, boisterous, cherry, and ridiculously hospitable man with a gleam of both pride and happiness in his eye. His booming voice filled the room instantly. Her mother was sitting on the floor preparing food when I first came and her warmth was instantly recognizable to me. They asked me questions about my family and where I was from and I tired to answer them to my best ability.

Where ever I was, where ever I went, I was surrounded by people. Either children, woman, men or a combination were constantly around. After eating, the weather cooled down and we able to sit outside. Not only was I surrounded by people the entire time, I was also given food and drink every step I made; freshly picked fruit from their garden, tea or coffee the my new brother insisted upon making for me. At one point, the same brother hushed towards me with a white dove in his hand (apparently they keep doves on their roof) and asked if I would like to hold it. As I held the dove, I explained to my family that this bird often symbolizes peace in my country. As I spoke, the dove drew free from my hands and flew back to the roof.

After drinking significant amounts of tea and coffee, Ekram and here sisters showed me around their garden, picking fruit for me to eat and holding my arms as I stepped over the rocky terrain. A group of children unknown to me circled our stroll as neighbors from their rooftops called out "Marhaban!" "Ahlan wa Sahlan" My hosts would respond and, "min Ameerica!" Eventually, I was led back into my hosts' private courtyard to keep away from the unabashedly curious neighbors.

Night had fallen in Jeresh. The cushions from the living room were moved outside so we could lay and enjoy the evening's refreshing cool. The call to prayer echoed around the valleys and bounced off the mountain tops as my host father, covered in his long robe, preceded to say his prayers and bow to the floor in exclamations to Allah. I lay in the adjacent corner surrounded by a group of women and Ekram's younger brothers. The women asked me various beauty questions: What do you use to clean your face? Your hair? How do you shave? In response to the shaving question, I responded that I just use a razor with soap. One of the sisters jumped to her feet and ran into the house. She brought with her a shaving razor and asked me if this is what I use. I nodded and the shock on their face was surprising. "But this for men! What we use, cook milk, honey, and flour together. Let dry and your skin, and rip off!"...and a mixture of milk and lentils will get rid of my freckles.

As we sat, talked, sang songs, and of course ate a group of bashful sheepherders joined our party. They sat in chairs across from me and when our glances met, their faces turned red and they looked around nervously laughing. My host father, noticing their puppy-love infatuation, preceded to point out all the young men in the room. "Ahmend..he is smart boy, good in university. Mahmoud...he's not as smart but in university...oh here! Mohammmed. He's a sheepherder...but he's very strong!"

Our visitors left and many of children began to fall asleep so it was time for us as well to go to bed. But bedtime turned into a card game with Ekram and her brothers until 1am...

with a 5am wake-up call by Mr. Rooster outside my window. I finally arose from bed around 7am to find Ekram and her entire family awake in the parlor with guests. I was handed coffee and asked if I wanted to go back to bed. No, no I'm just waking up, i'm ok!

One of their guest in the early morning was a woman who sat next to me without a flinch in her smile. She saw me, shook my hand furiously, bid me good morning, and began asking me questions about where I was from, what my family was like and what I was doing in Jordan. She also requested a picture of me for her five daughters. I hadn't even processed my first cup of coffee.

The rest of the day was lazy. Our first meal of the day was freshly made falafel, cooked vegetables, olives, pita, and home-made hummus. Following that meal was an endless supply of tea, juice, water, and fruit. We sat around, continued to play games, and talk. Eventually, (because it was Friday) it was time for the men to go to the mosque. One by one, they left and were gone for a few hours. Us women folk were left to our own devices which inevitably ended up to preparing food for lunch.

Honestly, I was delighted. The women and I sat around in a circle and prepared rice-filled grape leaves and zucchini. Apparently I was a fast learner in the preparation of this meal. It was noon and we were still wearing our pjs.

I was in a dream. The experience staying with this family was like nothing I've ever done before. For this first time in Jordan, I felt like I was in a truly Arab setting. Amman is a wonderful city and it is definitely different from how I live in America but there are so many Western influences in the city. My regret is that I needed to leave that afternoon.

Its taken me a few days to write this blog so some of the tiny little happenings are lost to me now but I remember clearly before I left my family took me to their uncle's farm down the street. I continued to meet various members of their family and Ekram, her brothers, and her cousins took me around the farm and explained the various farming practices of farmers in the region. Before I finally left around 6pm, her family sprayed me with various types of perfume...all from France, mind you. So I smelled like a french whore.

Ekram payed for a taxi back to Amman for me and I returned to Jeresh the next day with AMIDEAST to look at all the old Greek, Roman, and Byzantine ruins. I felt proud and maybe protective over the area we explored. As if I were apart of it for merely spending a night with a family, as if a part of myself was in this part of Jordan.

What an incredible experience.