My month in Amman has ended. I've gone through days of picture showing, story re-telling, and the ultimate question, "So how was it? Did you have a good time?"
Yes, I had an incredible time.
But how can I answer that question? How can I pay justice to my time in Amman with just some banal, commonly used phrase to sum up all my experiences? Within my short time in Amman, I had a life. There were times I felt my head was going to explore, where I felt I had been slapped in the face and then there were times I wanted to dance in the streets, where I just wanted to laugh uncontrollably, or give a hug to the old man who sat in a chair on my street every morning and smiled. Inevitably, most of my time fell somewhere between those extremes; in the everyday commonness that our lives are submerged. It is this commonness that separated my time in Amman from the time as a tourist in Amman. I can continue my life and say that I have lived in Amman.
Any lessons? Any deep reflections on what I've learned? Words of advice?
I went into Amman purposely without expectations. Partly because I had I know idea what to expect and partly because I didn't want to compare my experience to a preconceived notion of what my experience would be. I've waited a few days after my return to write this blog for a reason: I wanted my experience to really sink in. I wanted to wait for culture shock. Wait for a resonating piece of inspiration that could led me to write some brilliantly clever blog entry.
But nothing quite like that came. When I reflected upon my time in Jordan, my thoughts first turned to the people I met and I was flushed with overwhelming sadness; will I ever see them again? Will my promise of return be fulfilled?
But was I only sad? Certainly not. I felt my mind and heart expand. I had acquired a new level of understanding, a heighten awareness and appreciation of man's capacity. And with this, I was at peace. I had a taste of what I greatly desired and, though currently satisfied, a suspect that my desire to return to Jordan and extend my stay will grow stronger and stronger.
I have always suspected that the world was small but now I believe I have proof for that thesis. And with a world so small, I find it harder to justify what terrible things plague this planet. I cannot commit war against my brother. My brother who's features are different from mine and who may speak a foreign tongue but nonetheless he is my brother; simply because he is human. One thing I confirmed and I know for truth: people are people where ever you go. Our differences are so discrete but when you look to our similarities...
I feel like this is the secret to life.
This is what I left with from Jordan...along with two large bags of spice that looked like weed and a small Arabian dagger piled with other gifts in my checked suitcase. When going through airport security, I was curious about what sort of explanation I could come up with if I ran into trouble. In my sleepy stupor I doubt anything but the truth was going to fly. (ha, no pun intended!)
The days leading up to my departure passed quickly and I think that having final exams on out last day in the country contributed to it. I tried to fit as much in as as I could but I wasn't able to do everything I wanted. Earlier in the week, I met with my language partner for the last time. She took me throughout the city and bought me (of course) all the food that I hadn't tried yet. Egg-cheese-spice sandwiches, kanafa (a very heavy, cheesy dessert...one time kind of thing), fresh nuts from a stand, and two types of juices. We ended our evening smoking hooka and watching the U.S-Algeria game. As the only American in the room supporting the US, it was such an incredible game. I had the brightest smile in the world on my face when the US scored its goal and while most people gave me contemptuous side glances, but a noticed an older waiter chuckling at me. Pass the hooka please.
Parting with my Jordanian family was perhaps my least favorable part of the week. I am still in awe of how perfect the family was for me and how good they are. I wish very much to keep in touch with them and see them again.
So did the liberal-hippi-environmentalist find herself welcomed in Jordan? Find what political or social answers to life she was looking for?
No, I have to go back for more. This isn't the conclusion to the American in Amman, just part one.
Monday, June 28, 2010
Friday, June 18, 2010
Its been a very long time.
"This is television...we call it televiision...like TV."
It has been a long week the culminated to by far the most incredible experience I've had in Jordan. From the World Cup to having the best sandwich in the world to spending the night in Jeresh, my experience here will leave me craving more.
Ok, so best sandwich in the world. I've mentioned before about my language partner, early this week we meet up and went to a truly beautiful area of Amman where she insisted on buying me a Lebanese sandwich. What people say about Arab hospitality is entirely true, when I've gone out with Jordanians I've never had to pay. When I pull out my wallet, I'm shot a look that I cannot argue against. Put-your-wallet-back-in-your-bag-your-my-guest-get-use-to-it.
The sandwich shop was very discreet, I would have never noticed it if I were to walk by alone or drive by in a taxi. It seemed no different than the other numerous sandwich shops, coffee shops, or grocery stores that litter the streets of Amman. I walk in and it instantly reminded me of the numerous pizza shops that litter the streets of New York. Counter space, drink fridges to the side, and behind the counter the kitchen including an impressive brick oven. The sandwich was similar to a calzone but by far more tasty. The bread was sweet but paired with a salty and slightly bitter cheese and then matched the tartness of olives and the crunch of fresh vegetables...I'm drooling at the thought.
We talked and just walked around this beautiful area of the city. We ended up at a tiny park in the middle of the city. I discovered that my partner is of Palestinian descent from Neblus. Somehow Palestine always comes up.
The park was stunning and was nestled in a little corner of the city that I would have never discovered had it not been for my language partner. We walked around rubbing our hands on the rosemary bushes as I revealed to her my favorite activity of people watching. We eventually found a shaded nook off the main square of park to chat and people-watch. For then on we were silent and admired the beautiful world immediately around us.
After, we walked by a small bakery that had the best apple pie in Amman. A little taste of America in Amman?
In my travels in Amman, I've had the pleasure of meeting many people. Whether with Amideast or friends of friends of friends, I've had the pleasure of meeting some truly wonderful people. But by the far the most incredible and awe-inspiring experience I've had in Jordan was my decision to spend a the night with a rural family in Jeresh.
A friend introduced me to a Ekram, a woman who works in an NGO in Amman promoting environmental awareness, human rights, and youth involvement. I met with her wanting to know more about her organization and the type of work that she does. Our conversation led to a friendship and an opportunity that I will never forget. By the end of our meeting she invited me to her family's home in Jeresh for the weekend. I explained that I would only be able to stay for one evening but that I would be happy to visit.
By far, the best decision I have ever made. My word of advice to future travelers to Jordan when a family invites you to their home, go. I love Amman but it's a very Western city. If you wait a genuine taste of Arab culture, go to the countryside.
I met Ekram after class on Thursday to travel with her to Jeresh. We communicated in mostly Arabic and my confidence in this new little adventure grew. She told me that her family was waiting for me to come in order to take lunch. Meal 1 of the 7 meals that would have that day.
We hop off the bus down the street from her house and as the arid heat suctioned my body, I gleamed over the hill and witnessed a swaying valley surrounded by gentle mountains with Amman, Salt, and Jeresh visible through the haze.
This image were merely the beckon for what was to come next.
Her family was waiting for me as I entered. Ekram has five brothers, two of which are married, and two sisters, both younger. A family of 8 children that have either all graduated from university, are currently going to university, or are studying for their exams to enter university. Its quite a feat. Her parents and younger brothers and sisters were sitting comfortably in their living room; a large rectangular room in traditional design. Cushions, intended for sitting, laying, and eating; surrounding the half the room with a TV and desk adjacent. 3 rooms filed off from the main room: the parent's bedroom, the girl's bedroom, and a welcoming room designed with elaborate carpet and lounge chairs. Their house lay in the middle of a small farm; a few olive, berry, and plum trees and a chicken coup. Down the hill from their house were the farms of their grandparents and uncles, easily a acres of land for fruit and olive trees.
Word of Arab hospitality is completely true. Without hesitation, Ekram's family exclaimed that I was their daughter and sister insisted that I sit and began to teach me the words of everything in the room. Including the TV. The two or three people who spoke decent English insisted on explaining everything to me in English, even things that I could easily understand. I was offered coffee, tea, juice, water, and fresh fruit form their garden. Within an half hour we had our first meal: a dark green vegetable stew atop rice and of course pita bread. The first meal I could taste the freshness of the earth in the meal and immediately knew that most of their food would be picked straight from their garden.
It was also at this meal that I explained that I'm a vegetarian.
"No meat?"
"Yes."
"No chicken??"
"Yes, no chicken."
"Fish?"
"No, no fish."
The father's face cringed away and it was obvious that this was a tab bit strange. One of Ekram's married brothers interjected soon after, "Well..thats economical!"
At every meal I was given a towel to lay over my lap that no one else took. Something I'm not quite to sure why.
Ekram's father was a loud, boisterous, cherry, and ridiculously hospitable man with a gleam of both pride and happiness in his eye. His booming voice filled the room instantly. Her mother was sitting on the floor preparing food when I first came and her warmth was instantly recognizable to me. They asked me questions about my family and where I was from and I tired to answer them to my best ability.
Where ever I was, where ever I went, I was surrounded by people. Either children, woman, men or a combination were constantly around. After eating, the weather cooled down and we able to sit outside. Not only was I surrounded by people the entire time, I was also given food and drink every step I made; freshly picked fruit from their garden, tea or coffee the my new brother insisted upon making for me. At one point, the same brother hushed towards me with a white dove in his hand (apparently they keep doves on their roof) and asked if I would like to hold it. As I held the dove, I explained to my family that this bird often symbolizes peace in my country. As I spoke, the dove drew free from my hands and flew back to the roof.
After drinking significant amounts of tea and coffee, Ekram and here sisters showed me around their garden, picking fruit for me to eat and holding my arms as I stepped over the rocky terrain. A group of children unknown to me circled our stroll as neighbors from their rooftops called out "Marhaban!" "Ahlan wa Sahlan" My hosts would respond and, "min Ameerica!" Eventually, I was led back into my hosts' private courtyard to keep away from the unabashedly curious neighbors.
Night had fallen in Jeresh. The cushions from the living room were moved outside so we could lay and enjoy the evening's refreshing cool. The call to prayer echoed around the valleys and bounced off the mountain tops as my host father, covered in his long robe, preceded to say his prayers and bow to the floor in exclamations to Allah. I lay in the adjacent corner surrounded by a group of women and Ekram's younger brothers. The women asked me various beauty questions: What do you use to clean your face? Your hair? How do you shave? In response to the shaving question, I responded that I just use a razor with soap. One of the sisters jumped to her feet and ran into the house. She brought with her a shaving razor and asked me if this is what I use. I nodded and the shock on their face was surprising. "But this for men! What we use, cook milk, honey, and flour together. Let dry and your skin, and rip off!"...and a mixture of milk and lentils will get rid of my freckles.
As we sat, talked, sang songs, and of course ate a group of bashful sheepherders joined our party. They sat in chairs across from me and when our glances met, their faces turned red and they looked around nervously laughing. My host father, noticing their puppy-love infatuation, preceded to point out all the young men in the room. "Ahmend..he is smart boy, good in university. Mahmoud...he's not as smart but in university...oh here! Mohammmed. He's a sheepherder...but he's very strong!"
Our visitors left and many of children began to fall asleep so it was time for us as well to go to bed. But bedtime turned into a card game with Ekram and her brothers until 1am...
with a 5am wake-up call by Mr. Rooster outside my window. I finally arose from bed around 7am to find Ekram and her entire family awake in the parlor with guests. I was handed coffee and asked if I wanted to go back to bed. No, no I'm just waking up, i'm ok!
One of their guest in the early morning was a woman who sat next to me without a flinch in her smile. She saw me, shook my hand furiously, bid me good morning, and began asking me questions about where I was from, what my family was like and what I was doing in Jordan. She also requested a picture of me for her five daughters. I hadn't even processed my first cup of coffee.
The rest of the day was lazy. Our first meal of the day was freshly made falafel, cooked vegetables, olives, pita, and home-made hummus. Following that meal was an endless supply of tea, juice, water, and fruit. We sat around, continued to play games, and talk. Eventually, (because it was Friday) it was time for the men to go to the mosque. One by one, they left and were gone for a few hours. Us women folk were left to our own devices which inevitably ended up to preparing food for lunch.
Honestly, I was delighted. The women and I sat around in a circle and prepared rice-filled grape leaves and zucchini. Apparently I was a fast learner in the preparation of this meal. It was noon and we were still wearing our pjs.
I was in a dream. The experience staying with this family was like nothing I've ever done before. For this first time in Jordan, I felt like I was in a truly Arab setting. Amman is a wonderful city and it is definitely different from how I live in America but there are so many Western influences in the city. My regret is that I needed to leave that afternoon.
Its taken me a few days to write this blog so some of the tiny little happenings are lost to me now but I remember clearly before I left my family took me to their uncle's farm down the street. I continued to meet various members of their family and Ekram, her brothers, and her cousins took me around the farm and explained the various farming practices of farmers in the region. Before I finally left around 6pm, her family sprayed me with various types of perfume...all from France, mind you. So I smelled like a french whore.
Ekram payed for a taxi back to Amman for me and I returned to Jeresh the next day with AMIDEAST to look at all the old Greek, Roman, and Byzantine ruins. I felt proud and maybe protective over the area we explored. As if I were apart of it for merely spending a night with a family, as if a part of myself was in this part of Jordan.
What an incredible experience.
It has been a long week the culminated to by far the most incredible experience I've had in Jordan. From the World Cup to having the best sandwich in the world to spending the night in Jeresh, my experience here will leave me craving more.
Ok, so best sandwich in the world. I've mentioned before about my language partner, early this week we meet up and went to a truly beautiful area of Amman where she insisted on buying me a Lebanese sandwich. What people say about Arab hospitality is entirely true, when I've gone out with Jordanians I've never had to pay. When I pull out my wallet, I'm shot a look that I cannot argue against. Put-your-wallet-back-in-your-bag-your-my-guest-get-use-to-it.
The sandwich shop was very discreet, I would have never noticed it if I were to walk by alone or drive by in a taxi. It seemed no different than the other numerous sandwich shops, coffee shops, or grocery stores that litter the streets of Amman. I walk in and it instantly reminded me of the numerous pizza shops that litter the streets of New York. Counter space, drink fridges to the side, and behind the counter the kitchen including an impressive brick oven. The sandwich was similar to a calzone but by far more tasty. The bread was sweet but paired with a salty and slightly bitter cheese and then matched the tartness of olives and the crunch of fresh vegetables...I'm drooling at the thought.
We talked and just walked around this beautiful area of the city. We ended up at a tiny park in the middle of the city. I discovered that my partner is of Palestinian descent from Neblus. Somehow Palestine always comes up.
The park was stunning and was nestled in a little corner of the city that I would have never discovered had it not been for my language partner. We walked around rubbing our hands on the rosemary bushes as I revealed to her my favorite activity of people watching. We eventually found a shaded nook off the main square of park to chat and people-watch. For then on we were silent and admired the beautiful world immediately around us.
After, we walked by a small bakery that had the best apple pie in Amman. A little taste of America in Amman?
In my travels in Amman, I've had the pleasure of meeting many people. Whether with Amideast or friends of friends of friends, I've had the pleasure of meeting some truly wonderful people. But by the far the most incredible and awe-inspiring experience I've had in Jordan was my decision to spend a the night with a rural family in Jeresh.
A friend introduced me to a Ekram, a woman who works in an NGO in Amman promoting environmental awareness, human rights, and youth involvement. I met with her wanting to know more about her organization and the type of work that she does. Our conversation led to a friendship and an opportunity that I will never forget. By the end of our meeting she invited me to her family's home in Jeresh for the weekend. I explained that I would only be able to stay for one evening but that I would be happy to visit.
By far, the best decision I have ever made. My word of advice to future travelers to Jordan when a family invites you to their home, go. I love Amman but it's a very Western city. If you wait a genuine taste of Arab culture, go to the countryside.
I met Ekram after class on Thursday to travel with her to Jeresh. We communicated in mostly Arabic and my confidence in this new little adventure grew. She told me that her family was waiting for me to come in order to take lunch. Meal 1 of the 7 meals that would have that day.
We hop off the bus down the street from her house and as the arid heat suctioned my body, I gleamed over the hill and witnessed a swaying valley surrounded by gentle mountains with Amman, Salt, and Jeresh visible through the haze.
This image were merely the beckon for what was to come next.
Her family was waiting for me as I entered. Ekram has five brothers, two of which are married, and two sisters, both younger. A family of 8 children that have either all graduated from university, are currently going to university, or are studying for their exams to enter university. Its quite a feat. Her parents and younger brothers and sisters were sitting comfortably in their living room; a large rectangular room in traditional design. Cushions, intended for sitting, laying, and eating; surrounding the half the room with a TV and desk adjacent. 3 rooms filed off from the main room: the parent's bedroom, the girl's bedroom, and a welcoming room designed with elaborate carpet and lounge chairs. Their house lay in the middle of a small farm; a few olive, berry, and plum trees and a chicken coup. Down the hill from their house were the farms of their grandparents and uncles, easily a acres of land for fruit and olive trees.
Word of Arab hospitality is completely true. Without hesitation, Ekram's family exclaimed that I was their daughter and sister insisted that I sit and began to teach me the words of everything in the room. Including the TV. The two or three people who spoke decent English insisted on explaining everything to me in English, even things that I could easily understand. I was offered coffee, tea, juice, water, and fresh fruit form their garden. Within an half hour we had our first meal: a dark green vegetable stew atop rice and of course pita bread. The first meal I could taste the freshness of the earth in the meal and immediately knew that most of their food would be picked straight from their garden.
It was also at this meal that I explained that I'm a vegetarian.
"No meat?"
"Yes."
"No chicken??"
"Yes, no chicken."
"Fish?"
"No, no fish."
The father's face cringed away and it was obvious that this was a tab bit strange. One of Ekram's married brothers interjected soon after, "Well..thats economical!"
At every meal I was given a towel to lay over my lap that no one else took. Something I'm not quite to sure why.
Ekram's father was a loud, boisterous, cherry, and ridiculously hospitable man with a gleam of both pride and happiness in his eye. His booming voice filled the room instantly. Her mother was sitting on the floor preparing food when I first came and her warmth was instantly recognizable to me. They asked me questions about my family and where I was from and I tired to answer them to my best ability.
Where ever I was, where ever I went, I was surrounded by people. Either children, woman, men or a combination were constantly around. After eating, the weather cooled down and we able to sit outside. Not only was I surrounded by people the entire time, I was also given food and drink every step I made; freshly picked fruit from their garden, tea or coffee the my new brother insisted upon making for me. At one point, the same brother hushed towards me with a white dove in his hand (apparently they keep doves on their roof) and asked if I would like to hold it. As I held the dove, I explained to my family that this bird often symbolizes peace in my country. As I spoke, the dove drew free from my hands and flew back to the roof.
After drinking significant amounts of tea and coffee, Ekram and here sisters showed me around their garden, picking fruit for me to eat and holding my arms as I stepped over the rocky terrain. A group of children unknown to me circled our stroll as neighbors from their rooftops called out "Marhaban!" "Ahlan wa Sahlan" My hosts would respond and, "min Ameerica!" Eventually, I was led back into my hosts' private courtyard to keep away from the unabashedly curious neighbors.
Night had fallen in Jeresh. The cushions from the living room were moved outside so we could lay and enjoy the evening's refreshing cool. The call to prayer echoed around the valleys and bounced off the mountain tops as my host father, covered in his long robe, preceded to say his prayers and bow to the floor in exclamations to Allah. I lay in the adjacent corner surrounded by a group of women and Ekram's younger brothers. The women asked me various beauty questions: What do you use to clean your face? Your hair? How do you shave? In response to the shaving question, I responded that I just use a razor with soap. One of the sisters jumped to her feet and ran into the house. She brought with her a shaving razor and asked me if this is what I use. I nodded and the shock on their face was surprising. "But this for men! What we use, cook milk, honey, and flour together. Let dry and your skin, and rip off!"...and a mixture of milk and lentils will get rid of my freckles.
As we sat, talked, sang songs, and of course ate a group of bashful sheepherders joined our party. They sat in chairs across from me and when our glances met, their faces turned red and they looked around nervously laughing. My host father, noticing their puppy-love infatuation, preceded to point out all the young men in the room. "Ahmend..he is smart boy, good in university. Mahmoud...he's not as smart but in university...oh here! Mohammmed. He's a sheepherder...but he's very strong!"
Our visitors left and many of children began to fall asleep so it was time for us as well to go to bed. But bedtime turned into a card game with Ekram and her brothers until 1am...
with a 5am wake-up call by Mr. Rooster outside my window. I finally arose from bed around 7am to find Ekram and her entire family awake in the parlor with guests. I was handed coffee and asked if I wanted to go back to bed. No, no I'm just waking up, i'm ok!
One of their guest in the early morning was a woman who sat next to me without a flinch in her smile. She saw me, shook my hand furiously, bid me good morning, and began asking me questions about where I was from, what my family was like and what I was doing in Jordan. She also requested a picture of me for her five daughters. I hadn't even processed my first cup of coffee.
The rest of the day was lazy. Our first meal of the day was freshly made falafel, cooked vegetables, olives, pita, and home-made hummus. Following that meal was an endless supply of tea, juice, water, and fruit. We sat around, continued to play games, and talk. Eventually, (because it was Friday) it was time for the men to go to the mosque. One by one, they left and were gone for a few hours. Us women folk were left to our own devices which inevitably ended up to preparing food for lunch.
Honestly, I was delighted. The women and I sat around in a circle and prepared rice-filled grape leaves and zucchini. Apparently I was a fast learner in the preparation of this meal. It was noon and we were still wearing our pjs.
I was in a dream. The experience staying with this family was like nothing I've ever done before. For this first time in Jordan, I felt like I was in a truly Arab setting. Amman is a wonderful city and it is definitely different from how I live in America but there are so many Western influences in the city. My regret is that I needed to leave that afternoon.
Its taken me a few days to write this blog so some of the tiny little happenings are lost to me now but I remember clearly before I left my family took me to their uncle's farm down the street. I continued to meet various members of their family and Ekram, her brothers, and her cousins took me around the farm and explained the various farming practices of farmers in the region. Before I finally left around 6pm, her family sprayed me with various types of perfume...all from France, mind you. So I smelled like a french whore.
Ekram payed for a taxi back to Amman for me and I returned to Jeresh the next day with AMIDEAST to look at all the old Greek, Roman, and Byzantine ruins. I felt proud and maybe protective over the area we explored. As if I were apart of it for merely spending a night with a family, as if a part of myself was in this part of Jordan.
What an incredible experience.
Sunday, June 6, 2010
6/11 In Jordan
I find it hard now to keep a blog entry everyday. I'm either occupied with schoolwork or social activity (with my family or friends) but I suppose there is a lot I would like to write on. Much has happened in the past week, in so many aspects of life that it will be a great misfortune to have forgotten to write them.
I would like to give myself some credit. Thus far in this blog I have tried to maintain political neutrality. My goals is not to convey my political beliefs but instead to provide a more holistic view of the Middle East to a primarily Western audience. But there have been events that have boiled my very core.
I guess I should start with this. I will never drink Coca Cola again.
So Coca Cola and politics? Wheres the correlation? Before I mentioned about the word on the street about Coca Cola. Coca Cola 'supports' Israel. Perhaps its irrational for me to go running with that rumor and swear off Coca Cola and all its products. But I must, in some way, vent my rage.
The Israeli Raid on the Fortilla last week and the subsequent news after has brought me closer to the Israeli-Palestinian conflict and, for this, I am forever grateful for Israel. Being here to see the faces of Palestinians with their families in the Gaza Strip, to hear first hand accounts of their suffering, and to then see the news of Israel bombarding a fortilla full of aid and the murder of 9 humanitarian rights activists in international water has irrevocably strengthened my support for the Palestinian State.
Israel is on crack. To a certain extent, I can understand their reasoning for wanting to make sure that the fortilla carried only aid. A reasoning that I have trouble agreeing with, but a foreign sequencing of rationality that can possibly be disconcerned. What totally lacks any sequence of rational thought is their decision to storm a peaceful vessel in international waters consequentially killing 9 people. For me, it does not matter how hit who first. The Israeli soldiers who stormed the fortilla are supposedly highly trained military personal who attacked a group who's only experience in combat was probably limited to street fights after a long night at a bar. Additionally, it would be bizarre to me if the people on the fortilla didn't fight back.
I cannot say what I would have done if I were on the boat.
God forbid the people in Gaza get rice for their stomachs and cement for their homes. They are slowly being starved out of their homes but there's the loop hole; the people living there can't actually leave.
The conflict between Israel-Palestine and the world has occupied my mind considerably over the past few weeks. I wonder where I can find the answer. Is hidden in Mt. Nebo?
Thats really the problem which the Israel state. Its legitimacy and the source of their statehood lies in religious texts written thousands of years ago. They are embedded with a self righteous-defense complex. The state has constructed its right not only to the land that it currently possesses but also to the land that the Palestinians risk life and family to protect.
So is there an answer? How do you create peace?
I've always looked to the stars. As a child, I remember gazing at the night sky contemplating what was out there. But today when I gaze I think on our insignificance in the course of what we call history and science. Nothing is forever. The only constant is change. I believe that once we (the collective we) take upon that burden of humility, the recognition that we are a grain of sand on the beach of our constructed existence; the notions and perceptions of possession and all other roots from which spring conflict will be washed by each wave of new era.
But in this reality, I know nothing.
The World Cup begins today and I'm very excited to watch the World Cup in a country that actually appreciates soccer (football). Argentina and Spain seem to be favorites but I have always supported the Azzuri (Italia). Forza Azzuri!
Everyday this city reveals little surprises to me. As a take a taxi at dusk, I see the city at different angles of its beauty. Perhaps to me its beautiful because it looks so much unlike cities near to me. Or perhaps its when I notice the subtle differences in culture, like men kissing on the check as a greeting in the streets, in contrast to very Western surroundings. In many ways, its enchanting.
I want to come back.
I would like to give myself some credit. Thus far in this blog I have tried to maintain political neutrality. My goals is not to convey my political beliefs but instead to provide a more holistic view of the Middle East to a primarily Western audience. But there have been events that have boiled my very core.
I guess I should start with this. I will never drink Coca Cola again.
So Coca Cola and politics? Wheres the correlation? Before I mentioned about the word on the street about Coca Cola. Coca Cola 'supports' Israel. Perhaps its irrational for me to go running with that rumor and swear off Coca Cola and all its products. But I must, in some way, vent my rage.
The Israeli Raid on the Fortilla last week and the subsequent news after has brought me closer to the Israeli-Palestinian conflict and, for this, I am forever grateful for Israel. Being here to see the faces of Palestinians with their families in the Gaza Strip, to hear first hand accounts of their suffering, and to then see the news of Israel bombarding a fortilla full of aid and the murder of 9 humanitarian rights activists in international water has irrevocably strengthened my support for the Palestinian State.
Israel is on crack. To a certain extent, I can understand their reasoning for wanting to make sure that the fortilla carried only aid. A reasoning that I have trouble agreeing with, but a foreign sequencing of rationality that can possibly be disconcerned. What totally lacks any sequence of rational thought is their decision to storm a peaceful vessel in international waters consequentially killing 9 people. For me, it does not matter how hit who first. The Israeli soldiers who stormed the fortilla are supposedly highly trained military personal who attacked a group who's only experience in combat was probably limited to street fights after a long night at a bar. Additionally, it would be bizarre to me if the people on the fortilla didn't fight back.
I cannot say what I would have done if I were on the boat.
God forbid the people in Gaza get rice for their stomachs and cement for their homes. They are slowly being starved out of their homes but there's the loop hole; the people living there can't actually leave.
The conflict between Israel-Palestine and the world has occupied my mind considerably over the past few weeks. I wonder where I can find the answer. Is hidden in Mt. Nebo?
Thats really the problem which the Israel state. Its legitimacy and the source of their statehood lies in religious texts written thousands of years ago. They are embedded with a self righteous-defense complex. The state has constructed its right not only to the land that it currently possesses but also to the land that the Palestinians risk life and family to protect.
So is there an answer? How do you create peace?
I've always looked to the stars. As a child, I remember gazing at the night sky contemplating what was out there. But today when I gaze I think on our insignificance in the course of what we call history and science. Nothing is forever. The only constant is change. I believe that once we (the collective we) take upon that burden of humility, the recognition that we are a grain of sand on the beach of our constructed existence; the notions and perceptions of possession and all other roots from which spring conflict will be washed by each wave of new era.
But in this reality, I know nothing.
The World Cup begins today and I'm very excited to watch the World Cup in a country that actually appreciates soccer (football). Argentina and Spain seem to be favorites but I have always supported the Azzuri (Italia). Forza Azzuri!
Everyday this city reveals little surprises to me. As a take a taxi at dusk, I see the city at different angles of its beauty. Perhaps to me its beautiful because it looks so much unlike cities near to me. Or perhaps its when I notice the subtle differences in culture, like men kissing on the check as a greeting in the streets, in contrast to very Western surroundings. In many ways, its enchanting.
I want to come back.
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Finding Balance
About two weeks have past since I've lived in Jordan. I say live because I don't believe I came here as a tourist. It will be a short time lived but an incredible time lived. By incredible, I do not mean to say that there have been no bad times. I've ran into creepy or just really mean taxi drivers and felt completely incompetent in my language ability. I've many times felt tears swell in my eye when unable to answer a question in Arabic or understand what the person was saying.
But I've discovered balance between utter language despair and being the only American in a crowd with enjoying the my time in Amman and reflecting on what I have and will learn. I know with whom and on what to practice and I have faith that this experience will serve as the great foundation to my ultimate fluency in Arabic.
Yesterday, I felt for the first time in a week a real American in an American setting. Yesterday, I bought a gym membership at a gym near my school (I'm not too sure how long I can go without running without imploding). My friend planned to meet me an hour later. As I went to change for the gym, I realized that I had forgot my shoe. Yes just one shoe, I was fortunate enough to remember one. Running with only one shoe might not be a pleasant experience...anyway I had an hour to spare by myself before my friend could come and meet me. I saw a Starbuck. They had alot of coffee and I had a book by one of my favorite authors. I spent the next hour sitting alone drinking coffee and reading a book at a Starbucks. America.
Only later that afternoon, I was thrown into a real Arab setting. I went with my family to a traditional Arab dance performance. Huddle under a colorfully designed tent and standing along side rows of plastic chair crammed together over Bedouin rugs covered in dust. A princess in the royal family was there as well the two most famous signers in Jordan. Of course I didn't know this until later.
After the dance performance, there was an opportunity to meet and take photos with the two most famous signers in Jordan. I stood aside in a crowded room as my host mother pushed her two children into a picture with them. She turns to me, "Kelsey, go in!"
I respond, utterly confused, "Why? Where?"
"There! In the middle" a chorus of photographers with my host mom as the solo artist. I jump into the picture only later to find out that I had just been photographed with...you guessed it...the two most famous signers. My host mom explained to me that everyone in Jordan knows who these people are. As if I didn't stand out as the most American in the crowd already.
Each American student in my program is matched with a 'language partner". This person is to help understand the language, help with speaking, and just be there for the American student. I've met mine twice thus far and she is the one of the nicest people I have ever met. Her name is Aisha. We're making plans to see movies, go to places of the city where I've never been, and perhaps go to Petra.
All is well in Amman. There have been a number of peaceful demonstrations concerning the most recent Israel-Palestine-international conflict. But I've stayed largely out of the news while I'm here. Largely because I don't have the time to follow the news are religiously as I do at home. However, I did not a NGO that works in this region that I've instantly fallen in love with.
The Arab Group for the Protection of Nature.
They work to help reverse deforestation and confront access to water issues in Jordan and Palestine. For every one tree that is torn down, they strive to plant ten in its place. Their work is located heavily in Palestine where the extension of Israeli settlements and the building of 'the wall' tears down acres of olive trees: a source of income and food for the Palestinians.
Their website is wwww.apnature.org. I'm in love.
But I've discovered balance between utter language despair and being the only American in a crowd with enjoying the my time in Amman and reflecting on what I have and will learn. I know with whom and on what to practice and I have faith that this experience will serve as the great foundation to my ultimate fluency in Arabic.
Yesterday, I felt for the first time in a week a real American in an American setting. Yesterday, I bought a gym membership at a gym near my school (I'm not too sure how long I can go without running without imploding). My friend planned to meet me an hour later. As I went to change for the gym, I realized that I had forgot my shoe. Yes just one shoe, I was fortunate enough to remember one. Running with only one shoe might not be a pleasant experience...anyway I had an hour to spare by myself before my friend could come and meet me. I saw a Starbuck. They had alot of coffee and I had a book by one of my favorite authors. I spent the next hour sitting alone drinking coffee and reading a book at a Starbucks. America.
Only later that afternoon, I was thrown into a real Arab setting. I went with my family to a traditional Arab dance performance. Huddle under a colorfully designed tent and standing along side rows of plastic chair crammed together over Bedouin rugs covered in dust. A princess in the royal family was there as well the two most famous signers in Jordan. Of course I didn't know this until later.
After the dance performance, there was an opportunity to meet and take photos with the two most famous signers in Jordan. I stood aside in a crowded room as my host mother pushed her two children into a picture with them. She turns to me, "Kelsey, go in!"
I respond, utterly confused, "Why? Where?"
"There! In the middle" a chorus of photographers with my host mom as the solo artist. I jump into the picture only later to find out that I had just been photographed with...you guessed it...the two most famous signers. My host mom explained to me that everyone in Jordan knows who these people are. As if I didn't stand out as the most American in the crowd already.
Each American student in my program is matched with a 'language partner". This person is to help understand the language, help with speaking, and just be there for the American student. I've met mine twice thus far and she is the one of the nicest people I have ever met. Her name is Aisha. We're making plans to see movies, go to places of the city where I've never been, and perhaps go to Petra.
All is well in Amman. There have been a number of peaceful demonstrations concerning the most recent Israel-Palestine-international conflict. But I've stayed largely out of the news while I'm here. Largely because I don't have the time to follow the news are religiously as I do at home. However, I did not a NGO that works in this region that I've instantly fallen in love with.
The Arab Group for the Protection of Nature.
They work to help reverse deforestation and confront access to water issues in Jordan and Palestine. For every one tree that is torn down, they strive to plant ten in its place. Their work is located heavily in Palestine where the extension of Israeli settlements and the building of 'the wall' tears down acres of olive trees: a source of income and food for the Palestinians.
Their website is wwww.apnature.org. I'm in love.
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
It was only a matter of time.
The past week and 1/2 has been so invigorating but at the same time exhausting. I can already trace a pattern of high and lows in my time here. There are a few experiences that I have not yet written about like I would like to share.
I mentioned before about a open market in the city on Fridays. Last week, my friends and I went to this market. Its in a beautiful part of the city that I have mentioned before: Rainbow Street. The market also hosted a cheap concert concert on an edge overlooking the great expanse of the city.
The market was located in a long alley off the main street and an approximate amount of 50 tables lined the walls of the alley. Jewelry stands seemed to be the most common attraction while other stands were filled with books, paintings, food, scarves, bags, and any other sort of knic-knacs you could imagine. It was crowded and became progressively more so as the evening covered Amman. As I rummaged through the market looking softly at the displays, I saw one painting that caught my eye. Spattered in dark colors it depicts four Arab men standing the in the desert in traditional dress. Not having much money on me I walked away telling myself that I could back next week.
But what if its not there next week. I shuffled to the nearest ATM and ran back to buy my painting. The creator of this painting was selling his work at the stand and autographed my copy. Later, a friend asked me what about it made me buy it. I just replied that it appealed to me.
I thought about it more later. What was it about this painting that made walk up the street to an ATM in order to purchase it? I looked at it and thought about it. Looked at it and thought about it; which is mostly the trend I have with most pieces of art. I finally decided that it was elusive. The faces of the men cannot be distinguish and their form cloaked in white is only distinguishable against the dark colors of its scenery. The piece plays on form, shadow, and color as to create an aura of mystery. Instead, I was enchanted by the work.
I clutched my purchase as we pushed through the crowd to get tickets for the concert. We sat on rugs towards the back and waited for the music to begin. We were told earlier that a Jordanian rock band playing but I was happily surprised about what the music turned out to be. The opening act was Arab rap and although I couldn't understand I word that they said; their style was fresh and their beats were solid. Enough for me to appreciate.
The "rock band" turned out to be an inventive arrangement mixing traditional Arab sounds against the strumming of modern acoustic guitar. I was almost in a trance. The combination of traditional and contemporary sound was seamless but subtle clues to both were evident. Great music.
The market was such a great experience and I'm hoping to go again next week.
In the news, the Israeli raid on the aid fortilla is all the rage in Amman. The people here are glued to the news and it takes the front page,the second page, and the third page of every news paper. There have been a demonstration in Amman with participants burning an Israeli flag with the words "fire with fire" written across. I was no where this demonstration.
What is most upsetting here is to see people's reaction. For the people I have spoke to, they are unable to reach their families and are trying to figure out what exactly happen. How can I describe the way they approach it? Sullen but not despair. Yearning but not desperate for an answer. It is the approach of a people for whom tragedy is commonplace and the advent of danger and possible death is sharp.
As my host mother said once, "At times, it is hard to live in the Middle East."
"Things" have gotten better in Jordan but its the overwhelming sense that something bad is going to happen. To most, the current conflict between Israel-Palestine and the world was merely a matter of time.
I was given an Arabic name by one of my professors: Yasmin. I like it.
Its taken me a few days to finish this blog entry because of school work and so many other social reasons. My language skills are still painful but I can notice improvement which is the best I can ask for.
I mentioned before about a open market in the city on Fridays. Last week, my friends and I went to this market. Its in a beautiful part of the city that I have mentioned before: Rainbow Street. The market also hosted a cheap concert concert on an edge overlooking the great expanse of the city.
The market was located in a long alley off the main street and an approximate amount of 50 tables lined the walls of the alley. Jewelry stands seemed to be the most common attraction while other stands were filled with books, paintings, food, scarves, bags, and any other sort of knic-knacs you could imagine. It was crowded and became progressively more so as the evening covered Amman. As I rummaged through the market looking softly at the displays, I saw one painting that caught my eye. Spattered in dark colors it depicts four Arab men standing the in the desert in traditional dress. Not having much money on me I walked away telling myself that I could back next week.
But what if its not there next week. I shuffled to the nearest ATM and ran back to buy my painting. The creator of this painting was selling his work at the stand and autographed my copy. Later, a friend asked me what about it made me buy it. I just replied that it appealed to me.
I thought about it more later. What was it about this painting that made walk up the street to an ATM in order to purchase it? I looked at it and thought about it. Looked at it and thought about it; which is mostly the trend I have with most pieces of art. I finally decided that it was elusive. The faces of the men cannot be distinguish and their form cloaked in white is only distinguishable against the dark colors of its scenery. The piece plays on form, shadow, and color as to create an aura of mystery. Instead, I was enchanted by the work.
I clutched my purchase as we pushed through the crowd to get tickets for the concert. We sat on rugs towards the back and waited for the music to begin. We were told earlier that a Jordanian rock band playing but I was happily surprised about what the music turned out to be. The opening act was Arab rap and although I couldn't understand I word that they said; their style was fresh and their beats were solid. Enough for me to appreciate.
The "rock band" turned out to be an inventive arrangement mixing traditional Arab sounds against the strumming of modern acoustic guitar. I was almost in a trance. The combination of traditional and contemporary sound was seamless but subtle clues to both were evident. Great music.
The market was such a great experience and I'm hoping to go again next week.
In the news, the Israeli raid on the aid fortilla is all the rage in Amman. The people here are glued to the news and it takes the front page,the second page, and the third page of every news paper. There have been a demonstration in Amman with participants burning an Israeli flag with the words "fire with fire" written across. I was no where this demonstration.
What is most upsetting here is to see people's reaction. For the people I have spoke to, they are unable to reach their families and are trying to figure out what exactly happen. How can I describe the way they approach it? Sullen but not despair. Yearning but not desperate for an answer. It is the approach of a people for whom tragedy is commonplace and the advent of danger and possible death is sharp.
As my host mother said once, "At times, it is hard to live in the Middle East."
"Things" have gotten better in Jordan but its the overwhelming sense that something bad is going to happen. To most, the current conflict between Israel-Palestine and the world was merely a matter of time.
I was given an Arabic name by one of my professors: Yasmin. I like it.
Its taken me a few days to finish this blog entry because of school work and so many other social reasons. My language skills are still painful but I can notice improvement which is the best I can ask for.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
